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Unprecedented? Yes. Uncommon? No.

September 30, 2008 by John

The recent credit crunch, financial meltdown, and congressional inaction are unprecedented in market history.

Or are they?

We’ve never seen anything quite like this, and yet, market history is littered with “unprecedented” events.

Here’s a list of some events that have caused short-term volatility (and in some cases panic) in the markets:

  • The Cuban Missile Crisis (1962)
  • Arab oil embargo (early 1970’s)
  • Wage and price controls (1971-1974)
  • Nixon’s Resignation (1974)
  • Sky-high interest rates and inflation (early 80’s)
  • Stock Market Crash of 1987
  • The S&L Bailout (1989)
  • Foreign Currency Crises (1994-1998)

In the aftermath of all of these events (and too many others to name), the markets swiftly and decisively rewarded those who stuck with a diversified and deliberate strategy and ruthlessly punished those who threw in the towel.

Burn this series of events into your memory. Buy today’s newspaper and save the headline. Keep a journal of your daily emotions as this saga unfolds. The memory of events like these will make you a much better investor if you seize the opportunity to learn its lessons.

Posted in Investments | No Comments »

Five Ideas for Staying Sane in a Crazy Market

September 30, 2008 by John

A key part of managing your money is managing your emotions, particularly when the stock market is going through a period of uncertainty. Being able to keep your cool is one of the most valuable skills you can have as an investor.

Stay on course by continuing to save

Even if the value of your holdings fluctuates, regularly adding to an account that’s designed for a long-term goal may cushion the emotional impact of market swings. If losses are offset even in part by new savings, the bottom-line number on your statement might not be quite so discouraging.

If you’re using dollar-cost averaging–investing a specific amount regularly regardless of fluctuating price levels–you may be getting a bargain by buying when prices are down. However, dollar-cost averaging can’t guarantee a profit or protect against a loss, and you should consider your financial ability to continue purchases through periods of low price levels.

Stick with your game plan

Solid asset allocation is the basis of sound investing. One of the reasons a diversified portfolio is so important is that strong performance of some investments may help offset poor performance by others. Even with an appropriate asset allocation, some parts of a portfolio may struggle at any given time. Diversification can’t guarantee a profit or protect against a loss, but it can help you balance risks.

Look in the rear-view mirror

If you’re investing long term, sometimes it helps to take a look back and see how far you’ve come. If your portfolio is down this year, it can be easy to forget any progress you may already have made over the years, though past performance is no guarantee of future returns.

Think about why you made a specific investment in the first place. That can help you determine if it still deserves a place in your investing strategy. Understanding how a specific holding fits in your portfolio also can help you consider whether a lower price might actually represent a buying opportunity. If you don’t know an investment’s purpose in your overall strategy, now’s the time to find out.

Remember that everything’s relative

Most of the variance in the returns of different portfolios is generally attributable to their asset allocations. If you’ve got a well-diversified portfolio, it could be useful to compare its overall performance to relevant benchmarks. If you find that your investments are at least matching those benchmarks, that realization might help you feel better about your overall strategy.

Remind yourself that nothing lasts forever

Ups and downs are normal for the stock market. If you regret not selling at a market peak, or missed a bargain, remember that you’re likely to have other opportunities at some point. Having predetermined guidelines for buying and selling can prevent emotion from dictating investment decisions.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Investments, Personal Finance | No Comments »

College Admission: Early Decision and Early Action

September 30, 2008 by John

What’s the difference between early decision and early action?

If you and your child think the early decision process is too limiting, one alternative might be for your child to apply to college under an early action plan.

Early action plans are similar to early decision plans, but are less restrictive. First, a student can apply to more than one college early action. Second, if a student is accepted under an early action application, he or she can either commit to the college immediately or wait until the spring to do so.

Early action thus offers a huge advantage over early decision–your child gains the peace of mind that comes with early acceptance (and may even have several early acceptances by December or January), but can take a wait-and-see approach to making a commitment to any one school. This gives you and your child the opportunity to review the financial aid packages that come in from all the colleges your child has been accepted at, both under the early action process and the regular admissions process.

Not all colleges offer early action (or early decision) applications, however. In fact, in recent years, a handful of highly selective colleges have dropped their early action and/or early decision programs, believing that the process favors affluent students who are less likely to rely on financial aid. For a list of colleges that offer early action or early decision programs, visit www.collegeboard.com.

Considering the flexibility of early action plans, why would a student apply early decision? The answer is commitment–colleges likely consider the early decision applicant more committed, since he or she is bound to attend if accepted.

Students who apply either early action or early decision will need to have all applications and teacher recommendations completed by October or November of senior year.

Should my child apply to college early decision?


In the college early decision process, your child applies early to a particular college (typically in November of senior year), and hears back early (usually by December or January) as to whether he or she has been accepted.

For the student who has his or her heart set on a particular college that’s also a good fit, applying for admission early decision can be a favorable way to get a leg up on the competition. It’s also a good way to try to avoid the anxiety that typically comes with having to wait until spring for an acceptance letter. A student who gets accepted early may better enjoy his or her senior year, since there’ll be more time for hobbies, courses, work, or activities that he or she might not otherwise have the time or inclination to pursue.

However, there’s a catch: an early decision application is a binding contract. If the college accepts your child (and offers an adequate financial aid package), your child must agree to attend that college. Consequently, a student can apply to only one college early decision.

There are two situations where applying early decision may not work in a student’s favor. First, if a student needs senior year grades or extracurricular activities to boost his or her chances of admission, early decision will preclude consideration of these items. Second, if a student wants or needs to compare financial aid packages from several schools, early decision is not the route to go. Not only will the student have just one financial aid package to review, but the package may not be as generous as it would be for a traditional applicant. Why? Because the college knows that it’s the student’s first choice–in effect, the student has shown his or her cards.

Keep in mind that if your child does apply to one college early decision, he or she can still apply to other colleges through the regular admissions process as a backup–those applications are typically due by December or January.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Money & Children, Personal Finance, Saving for College | No Comments »

Should You Roll Your 401(k) Money Into an IRA?

September 30, 2008 by John

If you’re entitled to a distribution from your 401(k) plan (for example, because you’ve left your job), and it’s rollover-eligible, you may be faced with a choice. Should you take the distribution and roll the funds over to an IRA, or should you leave your money where it is?

Across the universe

In contrast to a 401(k) plan, where your investment options are limited to those selected by your employer (typically mutual funds or employer stock), the universe of IRA investments is virtually unlimited. For example, in addition to the usual IRA mainstays (stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and CDs), an IRA can invest in real estate, options, limited partnership interests, or anything else the law (and your IRA trustee/custodian) allows. (Certain investments may not be right for everyone, and some may have adverse tax consequences, so be sure to consult your financial professional.)

While the investment flexibility that IRAs provide can be a benefit for some people, it may be a drawback for others. If you lack investment knowledge and experience, you may be more comfortable with the limited investment alternatives your 401(k) plan provides.

Take it easy

The distribution options available to you in a 401(k) plan are typically limited, usually to a lump-sum payout, or installments payable over a period of years. And many plans require that distributions start if you’ve reached the plan’s normal retirement age (often age 65), even if you don’t yet need the funds.

Similarly, 401(k) plans often require that a beneficiary take a lump-sum payment shortly after the plan participant dies. This may not be a problem if your beneficiary is your spouse–he or she can roll the funds over to an IRA after your death. But a nonspousal rollover is possible only if your 401(k) plan allows it. And some don’t, forcing your beneficiary to take a distribution he or she may not yet need.

On the other hand, you can access the funds in an IRA at any time. You–and your beneficiary after your death–can take out as much, or as little, as you want. While you’ll need to start taking required minimum distributions (RMDs) after you reach age 70½ (and your beneficiary will need to take RMDs after you die), those payments can generally be spread over your (and your beneficiary’s) lifetime. (You aren’t required to take any distributions from a Roth IRA during your lifetime, but your beneficiary must take RMDs after your death.) A rollover to an IRA lets you and your beneficiary stretch distributions out over the maximum period the law allows, letting your nest egg enjoy the benefits of tax deferral as long as possible.

Note: Distributions from 401(k)s and IRAs may be subject to federal income tax. In addition, a 10% early distribution tax may apply if you haven’t reached age 59½. (Special rules apply to Roth 401(k)s and Roth IRAs.)

Gimme shelter

Your 401(k) plan may offer better creditor protection than an IRA. Federal law currently protects your total IRA assets up to $1,095,000–plus any amount you roll over from your 401(k) plan–if you declare bankruptcy. (The laws in your state may provide additional protection.) In contrast, assets in a 401(k) plan generally enjoy unlimited protection from your creditors under federal law, whether you’ve declared bankruptcy or not.

Let’s stay together

Another reason to roll your 401(k) funds over to an IRA is to consolidate your retirement assets. This may make it easier for you to monitor your investments and your beneficiary designations, and to make desired changes. You may also want to consolidate all of your IRAs. However, make sure you understand how Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) and Securities Investor Protection Corporation (SIPC) limits apply if you keep all your IRA funds in one financial institution.

Fools rush in

* While some 401(k) plans provide an annuity option, most still don’t. By rolling your 401(k) assets over to an IRA annuity, you can annuitize all or part of your 401(k) dollars.

* Many 401(k) plans have loan provisions, but you can’t borrow from an IRA. You only can access the money in an IRA by taking a distribution, which may be subject to income tax and penalties.

* If you were born before 1936, lump-sum distributions from your 401(k) may be eligible for special 10-year averaging or capital gains treatment. A rollover may make you ineligible for these tax rules.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Investments, Personal Finance, Retirement | No Comments »

Buying a Home in Foreclosure

September 30, 2008 by John

They’re not all in run-down neighborhoods, and they’re not all in complete disrepair. As the housing market’s woes continue, more homes go into foreclosure, and more real estate investment opportunities open up. While a buyer still has to prepare and beware, it may be possible to purchase a property in foreclosure at a discount off its market value.

Foreclosure is a legal process whereby a lender terminates a borrower’s right to redeem a property, generally because the borrower has defaulted on the mortgage. Once the foreclosure process is complete, the lender can sell the property to repay the mortgage.

If you’re considering buying a foreclosed property, keep in mind that there are many pitfalls to watch out for, and laws vary from state to state. You’ll want to work with an experienced real estate attorney.

The three stages of foreclosure

Depending on state law, foreclosure can be a relatively short or lengthy process. You might be able to buy a property in pre-foreclosure, at a foreclosure auction, or (if it didn’t sell at auction) in the real estate owned (REO) phase.

Pre-foreclosures

In order to identify properties that are in a pre-foreclosure status, you’ll need to locate loans that are in default. To do this, you may need to spend time in the courthouse researching foreclosure filings or subscribe to an online foreclosure reporting service that will do this for you. Once you find a property you’re interested in, you’ll need a title search performed to determine what liens are against the property, and you’ll need to contact the owner to negotiate a purchase. You’ll also need to have the property inspected (it may need some repair work) and then determine its market value. In making an offer on the property, consider the cost of paying off liens, repairing the property, and any other fees you’ll need to pay (such as those associated with securing financing to make the purchase).

This option requires a lot of legwork on your part and (preferably) the services of others experienced in the process. Contacting an owner (especially one who hasn’t listed the property for sale) can be difficult and stressful. However, pre-foreclosure sales may require minimum down payments, and you may be able to acquire a property at a good discount off its market value.

Auction sales

Once the foreclosure process is complete, the foreclosing lender (usually the holder of the first mortgage) may attempt to sell the property at auction–a fast-moving, public proceeding. Before you buy, you should have the title researched just as you would when making a pre-foreclosure offer. However, you generally won’t be allowed to have the property inspected beforehand (which precludes the possibility of obtaining a mortgage to purchase it), so you’ll be buying it “as is” and may not know all of what that entails. If you’re the successful bidder, you’ll need to make at least the required minimum down payment in cash (or with a certified check) on the spot and pay or finance the balance within 30 days, sometimes sooner.

Because you can’t first inspect the property and arrange financing, and because you must buy it “as is,” buying a property at auction can be very risky. However, you can receive a substantial discount off the market value of a property when it’s bought at auction.

Real estate owned (REO) properties

If a foreclosed property doesn’t sell at auction, the foreclosing lender takes possession of it. As a result, junior liens (such as second mortgages or home equity lines of credit) that may have encumbered the property’s title are discharged, and any taxes owed are paid. Any occupants remaining in the property are evicted, and the property is usually listed with a real estate agent.

At that point, the property becomes available for inspection. You may be buying an REO “as is,” but you’ll be able to find out what that means, and can adjust your purchase offer accordingly. While the lender holding the REO will try to get as much as possible for the property, it may consider discounts off market value in order to get the property off its books.

Purchasing an REO is probably the least risky way to buy a foreclosed property. You have time to arrange financing, and you may be able to obtain some discount off the property’s market value. However, the discount off market value will generally not be as substantial as with the other options for buying foreclosed property, and working with the bank can be a lengthy process.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Cashflow & Budgeting, Debt, Investments, Personal Finance, Real Estate | No Comments »

Why Work With a Financial Professional?

August 29, 2008 by John

If you’re like most people, you probably bring your automobile to a professional mechanic for routine maintenance. You see a doctor when you have concerns about your health, and for regular exams. When the need for legal counsel arises, you consult an attorney. All of us rely on the expertise of others. It’s no different when it comes to personal finances–most people could benefit from working with a financial professional. Here are some good reasons to do so:

You don’t know what you don’t know

No one can be an expert on every subject. Managing your finances on a day-to-day basis is one thing; implementing a comprehensive investment plan to fund your retirement while setting aside funds for your child’s education is something else. That doesn’t mean that you’re not capable of doing it, only that you shouldn’t underestimate the expertise needed to put together an effective plan. If you’re going to go it alone, you’ll need to educate yourself, and that brings us to the next point …

You have good intentions, but never set aside the time

There’s an entire industry built around providing individuals with the tools they need to do their own financial planning. Books, magazines, websites, calculators, worksheets, and videos all empower individuals to take a more active role in their financial future, whether they’re working alone or with a financial professional. Not one of these tools, however, will help unless you set aside both the time to learn to use the tool, and the time to apply the tool to your own situation. Working with a financial professional forces you to stop procrastinating, and shifts the time commitment from you to the professional.

Doing it all yourself isn’t efficient

There’s a long list of things that we could do ourselves but choose to pay someone else to do for us instead. For example, you could paint your house, but you may be happy to pay someone else to do it. Why? It’s more efficient. You can spend the time working on other things and, if you choose the right professional, it will probably be done faster and better than if you did it yourself. The same goes for working with a financial professional.

You’re not objective

It’s hard to look at your own situation objectively. Having someone else with experience analyze your financial condition can be extremely helpful. And, in cases where you and your spouse aren’t on the same financial page, a financial professional can listen to all concerns, identify underlying issues, and help you find common ground.

Keeping up with change is a full-time job

In the last two years, there have been at least five major pieces of tax legislation signed into law. Even seasoned financial professionals have had a difficult time keeping up with the changes. Not understanding how these changes might affect your financial plan could be dangerous, but understanding the changes takes time and effort.

You see the trees, but not the forest

A good financial professional can help you see the big picture. He or she can show you how your financial goals are related–for example, how you might save for both your child’s college education, as well as your own retirement. He or she can work with you to prioritize your goals, implement specific strategies, and choose suitable products or services. A financial professional can also stay on top of your plan to make sure it remains on track, recommending changes when conditions, or your circumstances, dictate.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Investments, Personal Finance | No Comments »

Providing for Children of a Previous Marriage

August 29, 2008 by John

For many married couples, when one spouse dies, all marital property passes to the surviving spouse. This means that the surviving spouse has sole responsibility for deciding what happens to that property when he or she dies. In the traditional family, this is rarely a concern. But, more and more often, the so-called traditional family is the exception, not the rule.

Remarriage can create unique estate planning concerns, especially if you want to provide for both your current spouse and your children from a previous marriage. In many cases, remarriage creates a situation of “yours, mine, and ours.” Your spouse may not have developed a close relationship with the children from your previous marriage, and may feel very little responsibility toward them. If this describes your family situation, you need to take positive steps now to ensure that your estate is ultimately distributed according to your wishes.

Why the logical solution may not be the best solution

A logical plan would be to leave all your property to a trust, allowing your spouse to live in your home rent free and live on the income from trust assets for the rest of his or her life. Then, when he or she dies, the property would pass to your children. This plan, however, could result in conflict between your surviving spouse and your children because:

* Your children’s investment objectives may not match your spouse’s

* Your children may watch every penny your spouse spends

* Your children may essentially be waiting for your spouse to die

Fortunately, there are other solutions that sever the money connection that is the source of the conflict described above.

Use life insurance

Life insurance can be a particularly effective method of providing for children from a previous marriage, and you have several options. First, you can make your children beneficiaries of a life insurance policy that you own. Second, your children can purchase insurance policies on your life, and you can gift funds to pay the premiums. Third, you can establish an irrevocable trust to hold life insurance purchased for their benefit. This third option is especially appropriate if you have minor children. In any case, your children are the beneficiaries of the life insurance policy, and you are guaranteed they will receive a certain amount of money when you die.

Name your children as beneficiaries of your retirement plan

Making your children the beneficiaries of your IRA or employer retirement plan is another way to provide for their needs after your death. Be aware, however, that you may need your spouse’s written consent if you wish to name anyone other than your spouse as the beneficiary of certain types of retirement plans.

Create a postnuptial agreement

Postnuptial agreements aren’t right for everyone, but they can help eliminate conflicts between your spouse and your children from a previous marriage. The agreement is a written contract between you and your spouse that states how property will be owned and distributed during the marriage, in the event of divorce, and at death.

Make your children joint owners

Giving your children joint ownership of property during your life will ensure that they receive that property upon your death. However, there are risks associated with this strategy. As joint owners, your children may have unlimited access to the property, meaning they would have the right to sell the property and use the proceeds for their own benefit. Also, the jointly owned property could be in jeopardy from your children’s creditors if your children run into financial difficulties, or they get divorced.

Leave your surviving spouse a lump sum

Consider leaving your surviving spouse a lump sum and dividing the remainder of your property among your children. Or conversely, leave a lump sum to your children and the remainder to your spouse. While this seems like a simple approach, there are instances when it can be very effective, especially if you have a relatively small estate.

It is important to note that there are income tax as well as estate and gift tax considerations associated with many of the options mentioned. See an experienced estate planning attorney for more guidance.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Estate Planning, Money & Children, Personal Finance | No Comments »

How Do I Dispute an Unsatisfactory Credit Card Purchase?

August 29, 2008 by John

If you used a credit card to make what turns out to be an unsatisfactory purchase, you should first seek a refund or a replacement from the merchant that sold you the item. But if you have no luck there, you may have some recourse through the credit card company.

There are some requirements. First, you must have used the credit card to purchase the merchandise for personal (not business) use. Second, if you’ve already paid the credit card bill on which the sale is listed, the credit card company generally won’t help you.

Additionally, the unsatisfactory purchase must have been made either with a charge card issued by the merchant or with a bank’s card. If the item was not purchased with the merchant’s own card, then the item must cost $50 or more.

Further, unless you used the merchant’s own card, the purchase must also have occurred within your home state or within 100 miles of your billing address. Catalogue sales, Internet sales, and orders placed by telephone may be considered in-state purchases. State laws may vary, but these purchases are generally protected.

If you’re unable to resolve the matter with the merchant, be sure to write the credit card company within 60 days of when the charge first appeared on your statement. Include in your letter your name, account number, information about the unsatisfactory item, and what you’ve done to try to resolve the matter with the seller.

The card issuer will usually investigate the matter, and you may withhold payment on the unsatisfactory merchandise until the matter is resolved. (Until then, no interest or late fees will be charged.) If the investigation reveals you are right and the merchant is at fault, you won’t have to pay for the item or any finance charges on it. However, if the card issuer doesn’t believe the merchant is at fault, you’ll be expected to pay for the item. If you want to continue the dispute with the merchant, you’ll have to do so in court.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Cashflow & Budgeting, Debt, Personal Finance | No Comments »

What’s a Credit Score and Why Should I Care?

August 29, 2008 by John

Your credit score is the result of a mathematical formula that’s applied to all the information in your credit report (both positive and negative) and then compared to millions of other credit reports. The most common credit score is a FICO score, developed by the Fair Isaac Corporation. A variation of the basic FICO model is used by each of the three major credit reporting agencies: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion.

Your FICO score is based on five categories, each of which accounts for a percentage of your total score:

* Your payment history: 35%

* An analysis of your debt: 30%

* The length of your credit history: 15%

* Recent inquiries/new credit activity: 10%

* Types of credit in use: 10%

The result is a three-digit number between 300 and 850 that estimates your level of credit risk. The higher the number, the lower the risk.

This number significantly affects your ability to get credit and the terms you’re offered. Generally, lenders consider people with scores above 700 to be in good financial health, and worthy of the best interest rates and credit terms. Those with scores below 600 are considered to be financially risky, and may be turned down for credit or offered stricter terms (higher interest rates, lower credit limits, and/or requirements for collateral or a cosigner or both).

To keep your score high:

* Pay your bills on time

* Repair any damage (i.e., overdue payments) as quickly as possible

* Keep your balances on your credit cards low (especially in relation to your credit limits)

* Pay off your debt

* Don’t open new accounts you don’t need

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Cashflow & Budgeting, Personal Finance | No Comments »

Where to Stash Your Emergency Cash

August 29, 2008 by John

A financial cushion can improve your ability to survive bad times, but right now that cash may be earning a relatively low interest rate. However, try to think of it as you might insurance: your emergency fund is designed to be there when you need it. Here are some possibilities that balance safety with liquidity:

Interest-bearing checking accounts

Deposit accounts are federally insured up to $100,000, so they’re as secure as it gets. Bank deposit balances are insured by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC); credit union balances are insured by the National Credit Union Administration. Lower costs often permit higher yields on online accounts, and minimum balances for online accounts also are typically low. However, depending on the institution, your access with an online-only account may be somewhat less convenient than you’re used to; for example, the number of deposits or check-writing privileges may be limited. An ATM/debit card linked to a checking account is convenient, but if the temptation to use it for a “retail emergency” proves too great, it could end up pulling the stuffing right out of your financial cushion.

High-yield savings accounts

Savings accounts typically offer higher interest rates than checking accounts. Again, some of the best rates may be available online. However, make sure you find out whether the yield quoted is an introductory rate and what minimum balance is required to get it. Also, some high-yield savings accounts require that a certain number of purchases be made using a linked credit or debit card–hardly appropriate for an emergencies-only fund.

Money market savings accounts

A money market savings account (MMA) may offer higher interest than a checking or even a regular savings account, but also may have some restrictions on access; for example, it may limit the number of transfers, withdrawals, or checks, and may require a higher minimum initial deposit or balance. (On the other hand, such constraints may force you to think twice before accessing that money without good cause.) MMAs generally invest in short-term commercial loans, CDs, and government securities.

Money market mutual funds

Money market mutual funds may offer higher rates than checking or savings accounts. Even though they may invest in similar types of securities as money market savings accounts, don’t confuse the two. An investment in a money market mutual fund is not insured or guaranteed by the FDIC or any other government agency. Although the fund seeks to preserve the value of your investment at $1 per share, it is possible to lose money by investing in the fund. If you’re in a high tax bracket, consider municipal money market funds, which offer the federal tax advantages of muni bonds. A fund that concentrates on munis from your state also may offer state tax benefits.

Laddered cash equivalents

Certificates of deposit (CDs) or short-term Treasury bills provide less liquidity, but a laddering approach could improve your access while still limiting to some extent your ability to raid your fund without a good reason. For example, you might buy six CDs; the first CD matures in one month, the second in two months, the third in three months and so on up to six months. When the first CD matures, you could buy another six-month CD; you’d do the same with each succeeding CD at maturity. That would make some cash available once a month, and laddering lets you adapt to changing interest rates. A similar strategy could be used with short-term T-bills, available in maturities of 4, 13, 26, and 52 weeks. However, be aware that if you need to sell or cash in a CD early, you may have to pay a substantial penalty that could wipe out any incremental yield. In the case of a brokered CD sold before maturity, you also might suffer a loss. Also, interest rates could affect the value of a T-bill sold before it matures.

Short-term bond funds

Sometimes used as an alternative to a money market fund, short-term bond funds have typically offered higher yields with relatively modest increased risk (though they also are not FDIC-insured). However, recent credit market conditions have underscored their hazards. Short-term bond funds may be more stable than long-term funds, but some investors have been surprised at losses resulting from their fund’s exposure during the past year’s credit turmoil to investments considered relatively safe.

Whatever you use for your cash stash, have a plan for replenishing it after the emergency has passed.

Read the disclosure.

Copyright ©2008 Forefield Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Posted in Cashflow & Budgeting, Investments, Personal Finance, Retirement | No Comments »

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